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Day 9 | 3 August 2025 | Walking the Camino Francés
From Los Arcos to Viana | 18.4 km 11.4 miles
Today was the first day of the expected heatwave. As we passed through the village of Torres del Río, we walked by an octagonal shaped church connected to the Knights Templar, who had a strong presence in this region of Navarre.
Vineyards soon became abundant, and in one field we spotted a small stone Guardaviñas commonly known as a beehive which was once used to watch over the crops.
On a wooden path we found a large area of stone piles stacked very carefully where pilgrims had left photos and mementos of lost loved ones, even the bushes were adorned with photos, flags and ribbons. Someone had taken the time to put in place a sofa and a couple of chairs so those that passed by could sit for a while and reflect over what they saw. It was a special place.
it was a long hot walk to Viana, so reaching the town and our guesthouse Casa Palaciega Doña Leocadia was a relief. Stepping inside it felt like we had left a desert for an oasis. Without hesitation, we immediately booked a second night to rest and explore the beautiful town. The building is steeped in history, and the proud owner, Oliver, gave us a tour, showing us the former winery, the library, and the salon. Each room was immaculately decorated, reflecting more than 400 years of heritage and with connections to royalty. It was the nicest place we were to stay at during the entire Camino.
In the evening Oliver invited us and two other guests to a complimentary wine and cheese tasting. Normally, I would have been in my element – but after only a sip, I had to excuse myself and go to bed. Something was clearly wrong. It turned out I was suffering from heat exhaustion.
Thankfully, by the next morning I felt much better, and we enjoyed a gentle, relaxing day in Viana.
