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Day 29 | 25 September 2025 | Walking the Camino Francés
From León to Villadangos del Páramo | 21.3 km 13.2 miles
We Are Back!
Thirty-two days after we left León as we had to pause walking the Camino because of the wildfires and closure of the Camino we arrived back in León yesterday. This morning, at last, we set off again!
What a difference a few weeks can make. During the heatwave, even the early mornings were warm, around 21°C. Today it was just 7°C and distinctly chilly.
Our gear has changed with the season. We are now wearing Gore-Tex walking shoes and lightweight Gore-Tex wind jackets – late autumn is clearly here, and Galicia’s rainy season lies ahead. Marianne has also swapped her 35-litre Fjällräven back pack for a much lighter 25-litre Haglöfs – Yes, the brand names do indicate that she is Swedish. This time we have packed for walking for just14 days, not the original 42.
Despite the chilly morning it was so nice to be back on the Camino de Santiago!
After about eight kilometres we reached the modern church of La Virgen del Camino, its bronze statues of the twelve apostles standing solemnly outside. We stopped there for our first coffee of the day. Spanish coffee is something special, and it had been missed more than I realised.
We had for a while, already seen and smelt the evidence that a horse was somewhere in front of us – and turning a corner we saw not one but 2 horses resting and grazing in the morning sunshine. I spoke with the rider who was also doing the Camino and had joined in Burgos.
Like walkers, horse riders can also earn the Compostela by completing the final 100 kilometres.
We had started to see stork nests, perched high in unlikely places. Churches seem to be favourites. My photo would have looked so much better! If it had a white stork or preferably three of them in it – especially against that clear blue sky background … but I was too late, they had already flown the nest back in June. A little annoying for the photographer in me.






