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Day 36 | 2 October 2025 | Walking the Camino Francés
From O Cebreiro to Triacastela | 20.7 km 12.9 miles
From O Cebreiro we continued 20.7 km through the green Galician countryside towards Triacastela. Highlights of this beautiful October stage included the Monumento do Peregrino at sunrise, a succession of tiny mountain villages and the extraordinary ancient chestnut tree at Ramil.
Today’s walk was mostly flat for the first 10 km, followed by a gentle descent over the next 10 km – a welcome relief after yesterday’s long, strenuous uphill walk.
After 4 km, just as the sun was rising, we arrived right on time at the Monumento do Peregrino (Monument to the Pilgrim), an imposing statue of a medieval pilgrim gazing out over the Galician landscape.
It was a beautiful October day – sunny and warm at around 25°C, perfect for walking through the still-green Galician countryside. Along the way we passed through several small villages: Liñaras, Padornelo, Fonfría, Biduedo, and Fillobal.
Just before reaching Triacastela, in the small hamlet of Ramil, we saw our second imposing sight of the day: ‘The Chestnut Tree’. Pilgrims have been walking past this remarkable tree for over 800 years. With its gnarled, ancient appearance, it is easy to see why it has been declared a Singular Tree of Galicia.
Our guesthouse for the evening was a converted school building – Pension Casa Simon, that our host Johann is transforming. In the large dining room and communal area, he had his framed Compostela (Certificate) hanging on the wall – he, too, had walked the entire Camino. His backpack sat in a corner, and when I commented on how large it was, he explained that he had walked during the Covid year of 2020. With many accommodation closures, restrictions and uncertainty along the route, he had needed to carry full camping equipment: a tent, sleeping bag, and cooking gear. Impressive.
