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Day 39 | 5 October 2025 | Walking the Camino Francés
From Portomarin to Palas de Rei | 24.6km 15.3 miles
We left Portomarín just as the day was beginning, passing the fortress church of St. John. I have mentioned it before, but the Spanish truly excel at floodlighting their historic buildings – the church, with its rose window glowing softly, looked spectacular in the early morning.
Our uphill woodland path was a pleasure to walk on, a welcome contrast to the rocky tracks we had tackled at the start of the Camino. As we climbed, we kept turning back to admire a stunning golden-yellow sunrise. By now, the rolling banks of mist had become a familiar Galician sight, appearing every morning. Some hills lay hidden beneath the fog, their peaks emerging like small islands floating above the clouds.
In the sunrise we spotted our first Hórreo (Granary) a traditional Galician stone granary, once used to store corn, grain, and wheat while keeping them dry and safe from rodents. Though most hórreos are no longer used for their original purpose, they remain cherished historical landmarks and are protected under Galicia’s Cultural Heritage Law. Raised on stone pillars to guard against ground moisture, they feature narrow slits along their walls that allow air to circulate freely, preventing rot in Galicia’s damp climate.
The day before, Marianne had met a fellow Swede, Karina, who was walking the Camino alone and had also started in Saint Jean Pied-de-Port. Karina hadn’t spoken Swedish with anyone for a month and was absolutely delighted to meet Marianne. She caught up with us during today’s walk, and the two of them walked together for the next hour before arranging to meet me at a café further along the route.
Walking alone for a while, I reflected on the dozens of people we had met along the way, and on how quickly a deep sense of companionship forms among pilgrims who share the common goal of reaching Santiago. The camaraderie on the Camino is truly something special.
When I reached the café, Karina had already moved on. The next time we saw her was in Santiago, reunited with her husband, who had flown out especially to watch her arrive in Santiago de Compostela – Buen Camino, Karina.
For information about the large mural – read the Next Day
