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Day 35 | 1 October 2025 | Walking the Camino Francés
From Ambasmestas to O Cebreiro | 13.4 km 8.3 miles
Today we were to walk up our second mountain in four days. I had planned our daily stages carefully so that when we woke that morning we were already close to the foot of the mountain, with our accommodation pre-booked for our arrival at the summit in O’Cebreiro at 1,300 metres. It proved to be a wise decision as beds became scarce.
We walked the 5 kilometres to Herrerías, where the ascent began. It was a beautiful morning with mist lingering in the valley and cows grazing quietly as the sun rose.
In Herrerías we noticed a grey horse (apparently a white horse is officially called grey) already saddled and waiting for its rider. Three other horses were also being prepared for the climb. Horses can be rented for the ascent, with a guide accompanying them.
That grey horse would cross our path three more times that day.
The first time was when the group passed us and an Asian woman was riding the grey. She was wearing the biggest smile imaginable – pure, unmistakable joy.
The second time was when she passed by us again a couple of hours later, after we had stopped to rest in different places. She was still smiling, positively beaming. We waved to her, she waved back with an even broader grin, and we all laughed.
The third time was near the top. The other horses, along with the guide, had already passed us on their way back down – but not the grey. We found that strange. Then, a short while later, the grey appeared, walking calmly downhill on its own, without a rider! We were worried for her.
We later learned that once the horses reach the summit, they are released and simply make their own way home, at their own pace.
The walk itself was strenuous, yet very enjoyable and far easier than I had expected – getting fitter perhaps?
For a 6-kilometre stretch we walked through lush green woodland with chestnut trees, which provided welcome shade. When we finally emerged from the forest, the path opened up and the mountain scenery was breathtaking.
Shortly afterwards, we crossed into Galicia and made it to the top.
