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Day 25 | 19 August 2025 | Walking the Camino Francés
From Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagún | 21.7 km 13.5 miles
We had grown so used to rising at 05:30 during the relentless heatwave that the routine had become second nature. So once again, wide awake at 05:30 we simply set off on our way.
Just before reaching the town of Sahagún, we passed through the two-figure gateway monument marking the Centro Geográfico del Camino (Geographical halfway point of the Camino Francés). A satisfying milestone: only half the journey left to walk. However, following an announcement the previous day about the Camino closure, we began to receive more detailed information via forums and media.
Record Spanish wildfires close the Camino de Santiago route at Astorga
The Civil Protection and Emergency Agency of Castilla y León had issued an urgent alert to the thousands of pilgrims currently on the Camino de Santiago, requesting the immediate suspension of travel in the Province of León due to the serious situation caused by active forest fires across the region.
We soon learned that many stages beyond León were completely affected, covering some 77 kilometres from Astorga to Villafranca del Bierzo. The warnings were stark:
Direct risk to life from possible entrapment, smoke inhalation, and extreme heat.
Severely polluted air, with suspended particles posing particular danger to those with respiratory conditions, as well as children and the elderly.
Pilgrims were advised to take buses to bypass the affected areas. As our intention had always been to walk every step of the Camino, we made the difficult decision to stop in León, which we would reach in three days’ time. From there, we would return home.
Our feelings echoed those of a 75-year-old pilgrim in Astorga, who told Reuters that the inconvenience to hikers was insignificant compared to the hardship faced by local residents.
“It’s a terrible thing for the population. The pilgrims can go back home and come another year to finish the Camino, but for the people who live here, it’s a terrible thing,” he said.
